The trek through the village was very interesting on either side of a path there were Mud hut dwellings for the various families, all the enclosed areas have a communal hut which is for chatting, doing one another's hair and just chewing the fat.... we joined a group of women and children and discussed our evening that I was going to have the privilege of attending.

A big night ahead for me ... I had my marriage beads ready, Katherine and I set out to prepare food for the evening and a punch for the 5 ladies that were coming...

6.30pm the ladies started to arrive and set straight into the alcohol and food, they managed to shoo the children away and now it was time for the girls ceremony... this ceremony was held inside the hut with all windows blacked out, door shut and candles lit...this ceremony is never done in front of children or any males only girls from the age of 14 years old ( as a girl becomes a women)....I was so excited as I had no idea of what to expect... the ladies turn the plastic water containers upside down and placed between their legs and used as drums.. 2 of the ladies were chosen to commence with the ceremony... they lift their shetenge's which is a cloth worn around the waist ...no man other than their husband is allowed to see the women's thighs, hence the blacking out of the room. The plastic drums and song commenced "Zambala" being the only word I could decipher....the dance is very erotic and this dance is to teach a women how to pleasure their husband they dance  moving their pelvic and thrusting sideways as well as back and forwards moving in what is called "4 corners" very very slowly...I was called to join the main lady Alice and my goodness my thighs were burning, although they were asking me is my waist hurting it clearly did not...but I was not allowed to stop until I slowly managed the 4 corner action...and I had to bear the pain... with the plastic drums in the back ground and their calls with glee sounded with their tongues I finally managed to master the "Zanbala"

I then had to prepare myself for the tattoo which is done with a razor blade and Mary is the main tattooist she then prepared my skin for the cutting ...I was shaking like a leaf....but they sang and it was soothing before I knew it the cuts were over without any pain and the burnt ash and some other natural power was rubbed into the cuts...after that one I was clearly prepared for the second which was done on my back....Mary (an Elder) set to work ...once again no feeling of pain...

We then set to wrap my 6 meters of beads around my waist where I was shown another dance of marriage... a women cannot refuse to have sex with her husband otherwise she will be beaten.... this was acted out between two women...it was enthralling to watch... although within the marriage beads there is a string of red beads.. without a word being uttered this string is taken off when a women is having her menstruation cycle and left on her pillow and the man is not allowed to touch the women at all while the beads are there.... this tradition is totally respected and not abused ....I was allowed to swap stories of tradition and it was incredibly interesting as within this culture breasts are for the children and for feeding, women and men do not do the act of cunnilingus or fellatio  as they believe that they will die ... what a complete difference in cultures.... they were completely appalled by the very thought....

It feels like I have been here forever and I have no concept of what it is going to be like when I return next week to Europe, even though this part of Africa is nothing like the Africa I grew up in, I can truely confirm to every one that if one is born in Africa ....Africa runs through your veins, I cannot say it is home as I believe that France is my HOME but my umbilicle cord is still attached to the native land of Africa.

I have been here now for 6 weeks and my observation and opinion of the different cultures without the politics is one of a great understanding now that I am older....I would not have been able to have these observations if it were not the position I have been living in...

I am staying on an estate with a predominately white community (200 people) the folk here are from Zimbabwe, South Africa, Zambia, Australia. They are all employed by a large mining company First Quantum they mine copper, cobalt, gold and sub minerals....it is owned by Zimbabweans ...this mine was only bought in 2004 and the development of the Solwezi town has grown within the last 5 years .... before the development this area was and still is very native....now people from all over Zambia are coming to this area to find work, and make money. Within Zambia there are 72 tribes all speaking their own dialect as well as they all have their own traditions.

My observation :

I have had the privilege while I have been here to meet and spend time with the cross section of people here in Solwezi / Laumali (Village)... with the minority that have money Black or White they are prejudice as well as having the privileges of having an education and not tradition..... I have been questioning myself while being here which is the most valued in life that would not cause anger, pain , despair and mistrust.

My answer to the question are the people that have both ...education as well as tradition....and this is very rare, most of the educated sections (minority) of the community do not have tradition and are driven selfishly by their own self importance. The traditional sections of the community (majority) are hunter gatherers and live the very life of subsistence and existence. The middle sector (min minority) have the tradition and have grown up with tradition and they have had the privilege of education whether is be to a 12 year old standard which is more likely....this sector have the aspirations to look after the traditional aspects as well as the education to move within a world that is developing, although very slow it works with greatness....the people that I have met within this sector are so inspiring as their needs and development are not for themselves but for one another. The examples are the "Women's Club" and the " Holland Disabled group" ...I am so grateful for the opportunity that I have had and will not regret my experiences.

This week I went into a village called Laumali which is completely rural, there was no running water, no electric ....certainly none of the luxuries that we take for granted.

The drive was 45 mins on the main road out of Solwezi and then 5 km's drive on the most duggered mud road to the village, this road to the village is mainly used by foot and the odd car once a week will pass through collecting anyone that would like to have a trip into Solwezi....

I did not know what to expect, but one certainly expects the worst conditions, so when I arrived it was a pleasant surprise, the view was absolutely stunning, one couldn't wish for a better vista,over looking the vlei ....the mud hut which was owned by Katherine was done to a standard that was exceptionally comfortable...for the first time in my six weeks there was no rain and we watched the sunset and prepared our dinner .... we chewed the fat around the fire and then it was time to pee... oooo, there was a long drop for pooing but peeing is done in the bush....mmmm.... now it is dark.... pitch black, which my miniature torch in my mouth scanning the area as I am squatting... snakes or any other kreepy krawlies, where are the kritters? I managed to relieve myself rather quickly, and for some reason it is always the longest wee wee ever no matter how hard you push out....but, I had broken the seal and that's not great. I retired to bed .... as there was 4 of us in the hut I was so aware that my growling of snoring would keep everyone awake....so I was desperately trying not to fall into a deep sleep....I woke about 3am needing another weewee and managed to negotiate my way out of the hut and really my heart was racing with fear of any wild dogs, animals that would greet me, but successfully nothing made my acquaintance .

We woke early 5.30am on Thursday morning to bid Sarah & Corne a farewell and sat outside enjoying the fresh air and peace and quiet, we lit a fire to boil water for a much needed coffee. Then children from every direction appeared as if they had dropped from the sky....the most delightful sight as they appeared in various attire, bare feet and massive grins as well as fascination expressions on there faces....one little girl Lavinda with her sister Rose did the washing of the dishes, and I prepared a few books so I could read to the children...they gathered around and listened as I expressed the words of the book ...they mimicked my expressions and words they enjoyed the sounds of.....they were engrossed with my hair, the colour and the texture so I was touched with great enthusiasm .... the children were also amazed how big I was ....in this area I can possibly confirm that I am the biggest women the locals have seen.... now this largeness is what all women aim for, it is sexy, it shows wealth and great prosperity......how do I not revel in this belief....I walked through the village with my head held high, children running in a line behind me running and calling the folk to come out and look at me....

Life cannot get any easier as I bask in warmth and revel in the fact that I have cooked 2 meals in the last 4 weeks .... I have been treated like a paying guest....as we have a lot of rain which I may have mentioned, I have come to Zambia in the rainy season, much to my disappointment, but it beats the cold weather of minus degrees, so hence NO golf for the past week as the course is bogged and muddy. Every time one goes out one's shoes are caked with this red rich mud, but, the shoes are left at the entrance of the house and like a magical fairy they are cleaned and placed as if they are brand new, I am starting to wonder how am I going to leave this all behind...

On "Old years Eve" Shayne's maid Miriam made me a traditional meal that is eaten here in Zambia, well, I was so excited to try this as I have eaten the maize staple food (Zimbabwe Sadza) when I was young so that was no problem at all, the maize staple food is called Nshima which is maize ground into a fine flour mix and cooked with water and salt and when it is cooked it has a dough like feel, one then moulds it in their hands and dips the Nshima into the sauce and meat or fish and consumes...the Africans always eat with their hands no utensils are ever used.... now Miriam cooked me Capenta which is a very small fish, like a baby sardine these are bought locally and they are dry when bought as there is no sell by date and they last longer if dried with salt.... it is then cooked with tomatoes and onions which will make a sauce....well, the smell is acrid, and quite a laugh for the Africans to watch me eat as they are used to the product....I tried to allow the smell not to get to me so I could show my appreciation, but, then I had to eat it and as far as I was concerned the taste was no better.... it was just very YUK!!!!! Hence eventually giving it to the dogs which was an utter treat and they simply enjoyed the meal more than I did.

My sister and her husband went to Ndola for New Year a 6hr drive and as I have mentioned earlier the roads are terrible...so i was not prepared to do the trip I would have rather stuck pins in my eyes.... anyone that has ever been in a car with me will understand that I am the world's worst passenger and I Whoop and Hoop and make terrible noises as though we are going to have an accident with any slightest movement whether it be a mirage on the road ... so not a good idea to have me in the car on these roads....

So, I waited patiently for an invitation, and Corne a lovely young lad was my escort for the evening...I couldn't have wished for anyone better, he is so well mannered and looked after me like a princess.... we had a few G&T's on the veranda with the music in the back ground to get us in the party mood, and then headed into town, well, "Town" it is not a town that we know in Europe it is a few shabeens (African drinking spots) and there is a fantastic hotel called "The Royal" ...this Hotel clearly services the business that is going on with the First Quantum Mine....we had a few drinks at the Hotel and then headed back...stopped into a bar which I frankly stick out like a sore thumb, with me being large and blonde, which I must inform you, if a lady is large in the African custom this signifies that they are extremely wealthy, which clearly I am not, I have just eaten and drunk too much and don't exercise, this cannot be explained in Africa as anyone that eats and drinks too much and does not exercise means that I have the wealth to eat and drink and I have many servants that do everything for me....mmmmm....anyway moving on... we took photo's and had a drink with the locals... as they are so dark in colour when I did take the photo's and showed them all that appeared to be seen in the dim light was me and white teeth ...they found this so fascinating that they made me take loads of photo's ...it was amusing... we then stopped at another African place and it was simply rocking which I danced to the 80's music and we had a shot and moved swiftly to our next party which was the club...by this time it was 10.10pm and we were Starvin Marvin and desperately needing something to eat... with all the intentions of a fab meal in our heads... we arrived bought our round of drinks and did our meeting and greeting, and to our massive disappointment the Club ran out of food...... what!!!!! what place runs out of food.... NO FOOD!!!! we got over ourselves and celebrated New Year and by this stage the alcohol was starting to take effects....we got given paper lanterns to light and set off into the wilderness.... could Corne and I do this right ....NO!!!! we managed to burn a hole in it and still we were determined to set the lantern free, but it collapsed and died a slow death on the green.... anyway off to the next party which was a street party been held in the Golf estate .... it was rocking with youngsters.... I managed to find the owners of the house and ask if I could make a sandwich for Corne, the worst sandwich I have ever prepared...processed cheese, polony and mayo.....yuk .... but Corne received the sandwich as if I had made lobster thermador ..deep joy!!!! I started to drink coke which was a blessing, as all parties with too much testosterone and alcohol ... a fight broke out, well, it was interesting watching punches thrown and they were complete air shots and the stumbling and rolling all over the place... it didn't ruin the party, I gather this happens quite often....

On New Years day after getting home at 5.45am... and waking up at 8.00am to take the new puppy out for wee's ...I just wanted to stay at home and chill, 2 friends Guy and Steph came round and I cooked steak, salad and baked potatoes, we spent the day on the veranda just laughing, chatting and chilling, absolutely perfect day...

This is my honor receiving a gift of a white live chicken

All the orphan children from the "Mashepo Womens Club"

All gathered in a local classroom for the speeches before the Christmas feast

group photo

Barabra's house 

A Well that has been installed for the Farming Conservation Project

Maize grown by the project ..showing the locals  a more efficient way of growing  crops

Chickens raised by Barbra 8 weeks old and ready to go to buyers.

Some of the elders from the "Mashepo  womens club"

All the children sang us a song

This is my gift received with great honor

karenlovesafrica@gmail.com

Well, it's been my third week here in Zambia and it started off rather slow .... but with much joy I went out on the First Quantum Mine Conservation Farming project with a chap from Zimbabwe Mike Corken , he is very passionate about the Conservation farming that needs teaching to the Zambians in the rural area here in the North Western Province ....the Zambian  people here farm with subsistence methods just to feed their families so the farm is very small ... although there is much more land available to them they seem and present themselves as a lazy nation....they do not have live stock as goats or cattle but are starting to do chickens....which is something that is a lucrative market as they breed and sell the chickens within 8 weeks... the farming maize is too much effort so the farm is as small as the average garden size in the UK and maybe smaller....

On Monday I was invited by a young girl Katherine to share a Christmas dinner.... ( I met her on Friday night previously )... to a project that is run by a group of African women "mapesho womens club" these elder women have taken it upon themselves to look after 45 AIDS orphans and currently 11 AIDS patients..they have been running this project for 10 years and it is clearly working....we arrived at 4pm and played outside games with the children who were a joy to see them in little less dressed in what we would call rags ...but who cares as they were just happy to be playing and laughing with immense innocence and I cannot explain what the feeling is when you experience this true happiness....the dignitary's arrived and were placed on the "Top Table" and the rest of us including the children filled the classroom ... the children were extremely well behaved and not realising why we were all gathered there...speeches and thanks were spoken and a lot of yodelling sounds with the women's tongues were sounded in appreciation.... here come the shock of all ... they decided they would offer 2 gifts to guests and these gifts are given with the highest of Honor and of course must be received in the same manner...thank goodness I am African born and I have an understanding of this.... but, I NEVER expected for one moment that I would be one of the chosen guests ...when they mentioned they wanted to give the first gift to the large Mama in the front..I actually turned around and they confirmed that I was that big mama.... well, I did not really need a Live White Chicken...but, I know I certainly could not refuse ..so I stood up and received my gift with much pleasure, the second person to receive the gift was the local pastor.... so the chicken was tied around the legs and put into the car for the remaining hours....we then proceeded to play with the children out doors while the most amazing feast was been prepared for the elders and adult guests... we ate Nshima which is maize staple diet... goat stew, an African tripe, African spinach and the gravy...this is of course eaten with ones hand and the process of washing ones hands is as important as the meal.....after we ate the children were lined up and then fed... this is a tradition where as the elders are always before children... how different we are!!!!... but these children know no different, and it is very humbling to watch the order and respect that the children have for their elders....

Yes, I gave the chicken to a disabled group that have a guest house in the town...they seemed to be very grateful for the token....

I managed to get myself completely plastered by finishing a bottle of Port on Christmas Eve, unfortunately my sister's father passed away ..we passed condolences and we still went to the party...so on Christmas day I suffered with the biggest hangover ever, I went to a couple in the compound that invited me to their Xmas meal, and I am so glad as the event was calm and collected...the food was absolutely amazing... and seriously it was bed by 9pm..

Boxing day is not a public holiday, as in France so everyone was back to work... the storms are rather vicious here so when the sun is out one wonders what one should do??? Katherine again happened to invite me to yet another party shared with a disabled group that have a program to keep disabled people off the streets from begging ...so they do all sorts of crafts and they have various business ventures..with no power there were solar lights brought out and we yet again had the most amazing African meal in the dark, they also gave me a gift as the guest which is an amazing bag made with the local African fabric... I am returning to teach the women how to crochet and do various crafts in January..so I am looking forward to putting some input into this group... 

I know this all sounds like a very European thing to be doing, but as I am African born and my roots are here it really is in the blood, and all the traditions and cultural differences flood back and are so rewarding being an adult as I am.... this experience is something that I can share in writing but the sounds,smells and the true African innocence one cannot put into words, it is something that one would need to experience themselves.....

I am coming home but, while I am here I will truly make the most of what I have experienced and seen and will certainly not take people for granted...

It is now 2.5 weeks and the weather here is very hot and humid as we are situated in the tropics we have very muggy days and nights with relentless rain when it arrives, sometimes it feels like it is the English/ Northern France summer....but I need not complain as I am aware that it is very cold and bitter up there.....

I am certainly loving the opportunity to play golf that is right on the door step, and always hope that we are not right in the middle of the course when the lightening siren sounds as trees and umbrella's are certainly no covers, deemed to be dangerous. so it is normally a dash for an anthill...I have the pleasure of having a caddie who's name is Lovemore, how appropriate.

I have certainly slotted into this lifestyle quite quickly, today I spotted some wood to do a braai and I was just about to go and collect it on the other side of the fence and for a moment the thought crossed my mind that the gardener can do it....OMG....I shall collect it myself later when he has gone... as it would certainly be assigned to him by the Madame Shayne.

As I have kept you updated, last week I had Putsi fly, which successfully all 9 were removed and I am now Putsi free ....but I am just getting over a spout of Malaria .... I spent Friday night in a clinical hospital where they looked after me so well, I am still not quite sure whether it was because I was friendly and very accommodating or whether it was because "I am White" after being on a drip and having various injections, Saturday morning I was 85% great.... my sister has been given a resonator (machine that sends electric impulses) to adhere the parasite and help my spleen...so this I am on daily...

Saturday afternoon we travelled 2 hrs on the most traitorous roads to a lodge called "Nabona" in Chingola (love the names)  to a 50th Birthday Party, it took a while before I got my African legs, but the G&T's are doing their wonders, obviously for medicinal purposes. Another night spent till dawn...I did my usual and never went to bed. I was also determined to go down to the Kafui river and see the sun rise...so I proceeded to trek down to the river (on a 70% declining slope) in bare feet as it was quite muddy, I reached the river and as one would do in Europe dipped my both feet in the river to test the temperature...the river and scenery breath taking and a wonder that Africa truly has....I then climb up this Gormo (Hill) and reach the lodge for the owners (a young couple) greeting me and asking if I saw any crocodiles ..mmm..I replied no none at all, to my ignorance the Kafui river is riddled with crocs ...they then told me that they were down at the river last week and a damned croc shot out the water a took their Jack Russel.... sorry!!!!! WTF!!!! Oh casually, "Karen, it happen's all the time"...I won't be going down with any dog, I can assure you.

Nothing much happening, but I am organising to visit an orphanage on Friday.... I am busy organising a job for my sister's maid 's husband as he has not worked for 12 years, he is a brick layer and plasterer ...WOW , I wish I could take him back to France... I am still waiting to visit some development projects that are going on in the compound, which will be interesting,but, as we are nearing Christmas everyone has returned to their countries of habitation (SA, Australia, Zimbabwe and Belgium). I have also started my sister's maid (Miriam) crocheting covers with beads (for jugs etc) as she has never seen this craft in her life, and she is so chuffed that she can do this, so I may get her started in a little sideline industry too.

Excuse the sight but this is the "Putsi" at first one thinks it is a bite from a mosquito 

but the bite got bigger and also one can feel movement...of course the maggot is eating and returning to the top for breath and then continuing their feast...

02/12/2012

After a long flight from London Heathrow, as i was too afraid to fall asleep after a quick nap waking with my snoring and scaring the African gentleman beside me ... his whites of his eyes showed me how shocked he was when rudely awoken by some voluptuous women almost swallowed him whole...bless, served breakfast at 1am UK time but 3am Kenyan time..mmmm...strange but hey I ate .. arrived in Kenya, Nairobi, and waited 3hrs hrs for my connecting flight to the Congo...air crew were so amazing, stayed on the plane to continue onto my destination Ndola Zambia, where I had a very emotional welcome by My sister Shayne and her husband Ant who I have not seen in 19 years...all looked well, and the stifling heat was such a joy.... we decided to take the road and return to home which is in Solwezi  4.5hrs drive away, well, people in the UK have problems with traffic and being stuck in traffic jams for hrs ...this is a new experience as All eyes on the road, if there are not POT holes, speed bumps the size of hills, Africans with no road sense, over crowded buses & cars....so the trip really takes 6hrs ....

This is the good part... we arrive home to a wonderful greeting from Jade their Lab dog 15 months old (just like Baxter boy) and straight onto the veranda with a G&T and Eland biltong as much as one could consume....after a fresh farm lamb was packed and put into the freezer..it was time for some fresh lamb chops fresh veg and nosh was had...

shayne and I stayed up until 2am chewing the fat....well one has to!!!


03/12/2012


Woke early this morning 7am ready for what Africa has to offer me!!!!

Set up everything to play golf, well only a few holes as I haven't played for 2yrs...

I was incredibly tired and maybe it will get better after the massive blisters too.

1st week

I have had my first week here in Zambia, as always never sans a drama....I played in a competition on Saturday with my sister and I got 19 points on a 36 handicap but I never played the first front nine before so it was a little frustrating only got 4 points and then played the back nine which I have played twice so I got 15 points so I was pleased with my back nine...I am sure by this week I shall improve so my caddie says....I would love to break 100 while I am out here.... but while on the course I was stung by a Kenyan beetle which blistered my right arm horrifically and I had to go to the clinical doctor after who proceeded to give me an injection in my bottom which was so sore.... then she noticed I had massive lumps on my bottom and proceeded to tell me I had maggots buried (3 of them) eating away merrily ..... so I have to wait until they are bigger and will go back tomorrow to have them taken out...they call them putsi fly...mmmm.... well, the cause is because my sister never put my knickers in the tumble dryer so the fly lays eggs and as soon as you wear the item the body warmth lays the eggs and the maggots then have a lovely feast....Africa hey.... the temperature is 38/40c so it is stifling hot and humid as we are in the tropics....

We have been to a few parties which believe me have tired me out and I have felt like a child and asked to go home, even though I am sleeping every afternoon it is still too hot for me....we went to a Zimbabwean party on Saturday night and I met a Belgium couple so it was lovely to speak French and of course they were so happy to speak their mother tongue too.

I have met a chap that has started development programs here with the foundation of First Quantum Mines.... I am very interested in looking at the projects....although very hard to get someone to take me out.....

This is such a wonderful opportunity that I have and I am so grateful that I have been able to come and have this experience....but I know for certain that I could never ever live here, the folk here are so insular and really ignorant about the world we live in the negativity is incredible and quite draining, as they are earning a lot of money and constantly moan, they almost have no idea what is on their door step....so sad to be around, my prayers are very prevalent at the moment for the locals and the whites that are working with and around them.

I am playing 18 holes tomorrow and then rest on Wednesday and then off to Lusaka for the day on Thursday.....the town here is like an African location and is quite intimidating for me, really scary as the poverty is rife.....

This is at the "Zimbo" Party Saturday night....

These are the animals which include Zebra, impala, orbi and sable that are on the golf course in the "Kansanshi Mine Estate"..